Massive New Bouldering Wall for Dublin!!

Wow - Dublin, you're in for a treat!  gravityclimbing.blogspot.com


PRESS RELEASE

GRAVITY CLIMBING CENTRE - Coming soon to Dublin

Good morning Dublin! We are very excited to announce the imminent arrival of Dublin's newest and largest climbing wall.

Behind the development is one of the most experienced teams in the climbing world; joining the Irish partners (to be disclosed soon) are two of the team from The Climbing Works - the Worlds Biggest Bouldering Wall. www.climbingworks.com

On offer will be a massive variety of climbing surfaces, angles and features. This, combined with regular route setting, will ensure there is something for everyone right from complete beginner, up to international competitor. Beyond the huge array of bouldering, the centre will also feature a separate kids area, the cafe and much, much more. In other words, we're bringing you an amazing wall which we hope will become central to the Irish climbing community - somewhere you can call your own even.

To keep track of things as they happen, check out www.gravityclimbing.ie or why not join us on Facebook.

The Gravity Climbing Team

Six

 

 

Well, this past year hasn't run from or to January 1st. It's run from CWIF to CWIF. It began in March 2010 with being asked to step in for Andy on the ClimbNewcastle team. Next thing I knew I was in the Semi-Final with 15 other individuals who can often be found sneaking into the world top 20. I didn't expect to be there and performed like the amatuer I was, in my first International event.

The year then led through some serious Ups and a couple of Downs most chronicled here. Then came March 2011 and we were back at the beginning again. Except this time I had a little more experience under my belt and just scraped into the Semi. On this occasion however, I came out like the rabid little badger I imagined I was (in my head anyway), and qualified for the final in 5th place. Unfortunately, by the final I'd lost a bit of momentum and a pretty weak performance followed, 6th it was. However, it was my first International final and I'd managed to put a few big names to bed to get there. A little experience goes a long way and from here I can't even see the horizon...

Working Class (Font. 8a+/b)   Photo: Naomi Hart

I tweaked my shoulder at the comp so took a couple of weeks off before finally cracking and heading to Bowden. Having tried it briefly on the previous evening and a good few goes flapping around in the heat the next day, the clouds rolled in and conditions got better. Working Class Font. 8a+ was in the bag. While getting a few pics later in the evening I went for broke and tried it from the sitter, dropped the last hold on the first go and with it the Font. 8b. Arse!

Legends, Heroes and Villains

Nigel Callender Monk Life - Photo: (C) Paul Ogden 2011

Every blue moon you do a route or problem that really means something to you. For me, most of these have been steeped in history, usually involving one or more of the few true 'heroes' I've had over the years. Stuff like the many Tom Ryan routes on my local crag of Ailladie back in Ireland, stuff like Jerry's Roof in the Pass or the (very) few terrifying Pritchard routes I've done on slate.

When I moved to Newcastle, there was one line that stood out. It was Malcolm Smith's 'Monk Life' at Kyloe. The perfect line of sustained hard climbing on a beautiful scoop of bullet hard sandstone, tucked away in a remote Northumberland wood. Add to this the history of the line - this was Smith's famous 10 year project, the only previous repeaters true Legends of the UK and international climbing scene from the past 10 years.

As a teenager training in my garage on freezing winter evenings I always felt that if Malcolm had the drive to be pushing himself to the limit, training on his own, far from the supposed training meccas of Sheffield and elsewhere, then I could try just as hard and anything less was accepting failure and rejecting what may just be possible.

Flash forward again 10 years and I'm stood below the line created by the man himself. The one that's seen off all repeats except for a few people who incidentally make up most of my list of heroes. Each in their own way having shaped my own life in climbing over the years. Some more directly than others, one in particular to whom I probably owe all of this. Stay motivated Andy.

For me, unlike the others, I have it easy. I know it's possible, I've seen the videos and been told the sequence, no excuses.

Monk Life, Font. 8b+, Kyloe in the Woods.

F.A.  Malcolm Smith (2003),
        Andrew Earl,
        John Gaskins,
        Micky '8c' Paige,
        Nigel Callender.

Six sessions, 26 years of preparation. I hearby announce my retirement.



Monk Life, Font 8b+, Kyloe from Nigel Callender on Vimeo.

To Be Continued...

Desperado

 

 Desperado (8a+) Gimmerknowe; Photo-Adam Watson

Been a quiet month for me, just at the end of my yearly month off from climbing. Feel as though most of the tweaks from the season have healed so it's finally time to get back on some rock.

Just before my little holiday I managed to sneak a repeat of Earl's 8a+ up at Gimmerknowe, well pleased as it went down in about half an hour or so. Crazy body tension and real touch and go cut loose! 'Think' this was probably the 3rd ascent?

The next evening Andy P and I headed out to Bowden to have a play on The Crack - perfect conditions meant I was scared and backing off the 5a topout before I knew it. Video below for your entertainment. I need to grow some balls....


Nige Callender Loving The Craic from Andrew Porter on Vimeo.

Loser! :o)

Why bother?

 

Innsbruck: The bathroom door said it all....

The Big One

You will fall off. Chalk up, get back on, and this time - no mistakes.

European Championships 2010, Innsbruck, Thursday September 16th.

Live TV coverage at: http://www.euro-2010.at/live_stream.html
And:   http://www.247.tv/climbing/ifsc-european-championships-2010-imstinnsbruck-aut/ 

I should be out after 11am local time

Last session done, I'm tired and sore. Starting to focus now...