Thirty Three

The 3rd problem. Thanks to Diane Merrick for the photo!!

Sitting in Ireland at the moment staring out my parents kitchen window at the drizzle. I remember why I don't live here now :o) Have been resting the last two weeks following the Munich comp just trying to sort out my elbow and a few tweaked fingers, all pretty minor. The comp in Munich was actually one of the best experiences of my life and a total contrast to Sheffield. This time I came out psyched, pulled hard topping 2 of the 5 qualifiers and powering out on a 'reasonably' straightforward final move on a 3rd problem. Little did I know that that one move was my ticket to the semi's and a minimum top 20 finish in that round. Apparent reason for failure - overgripping, as usual. Didn't matter though, I was happy with how it went and on any other day it may have been different. There's plenty more in the tank and I learned a lot from that one.

Ned powered his way into the semi's finally finishing in 15th, ahead of some real wads and Stew W. was somewhere ahead again so all was not lost for Team GB and their adoptive token Irishman. The real highlight of the weekend however was the party... Having not drank for a few months, I'd managed to acquire what I believe is what's referred to as a hangover. The train journey to the airport with Jon the next morning was a somewhat quiet affair for some reason.

Eventually I managed to land in Bristol having not chundered over anyone and spent the next week at Ali's. It's not every day your girlfriend's mum asks you to build a climbing wall. So I bashed away in the barn for the next few days and came up with this:

This little beauty is free standing, benefits from, um, holds, of which there are 9 in a variety of colours, all along with a non-stick emergency escape slide out the back. Guaranteed to have you climbing 9a next week. I train on one myself in fact. I'll be taking orders next week...

Actually this was the end product, significantly steeper than it looks, 30 degree prow especially:

Shame I never got to set any routes, Entre-prises next-day delivery arrived four days later - Thanks for that one...

Finally wound up back in Ireland where some friends have made an unbelieveable effort bolting a crag a few hours away with some real quality lines. Just spent the evening there but along with a few other routes did one of the best 6a's I've done anywhere - well worth the effort. If anyone would like to give generously (in the form of cash, bolts or epoxy) I can pass on their details.

May possibly be off to the European Champs in Innsbruck in 4 weeks pending me finding someone willing to pay for it - as being a student at the moment, I can't. Any ideas?

Auf Weidersehen

Off to Munich in the morning for the last round of this years Bouldering World Cup (roll on the afterparty...) which is being held in the 1972 Olympic Stadium. It should be really amazing competing in such a special venue, I'd imagine there isn't a single person on the circuit at the moment who wouldn't give everything for a shot at an Olympic medal. With each year, and the work of the IFSC this is looking like more and more of a possibility. Fingers crossed, though I'll probably be too old by the time it matters!

In other news, got my Uni results yesterday and don't have to repeat the year unbelievably. Far more unbelievably, I actually did well. I guess that competing this year was a good idea and settles any doubts I had surrounding the next two. As for next year, anyone know a Sports Med clinic in Austria that speaks English, possibly who'd like to take on a student that will be out cimbing all the time instead of at work?

Finally, above is the logo from a new and up and coming clothing brand that two friends have established. I've seen some of the designs they have in the pipeline as well as their first batch, needless to say, it's well worth a look - www.mokoclothing.co.uk

A tear in the performance surface

It hurts right now, so much more than just aching muscles, deep seated psychological hurt that's there every moment I'm not distracted by something else. It was even there in my dreams last night. Months, or you may even say a lifetime of preparation have been met with total failure to perform on the day.

I'm not totally sure why this happened even, which frustrates me further. If I knew where the weaknesses lay, I'd just eliminate them. Possibly it was folding under the expectations of both myself and others, possibly it was the strange calm I was feeling instead of trying to reach a more aroused state? Maybe it was just the 'flash pump' I got on the first problem - most likely it was all of the above plus other factors I haven't identified yet.

Gaz was amazing. There are very few occasions where I'm genuinely impressed and inspired by other climbers, but seeing him yesterday was one of them. A perfect round in the qualifiers having only done a few other minor comps this year. The difference isn't strength, it's technique and masses of experience topped with determination that you rarely see. I have three of those, just not always on every day (even technique when I need to, believe it or not). The fourth is I guess what will be taken from this disaster - I really felt that in most comps a major strength was my experience, I'd made so many mistakes in the past, I'd got most of them out of the system. But this is a new level and so I guess the process starts all over again.

I've missed more than 9000 shots in my career. I've lost almost 300 games. 26 times, I've been trusted to take the game winning shot and missed. I've failed over and over and over again in my life. And that is why I succeed.                  -Michael Jordan- 

This quote says it all for me, it's a snapshot of what it takes to be the best. I believe in it and have done for many years, it's got me past a lot of poor performances. It will take time probably measured in years, and many more painful analyses of what went wrong, but I will stand on that podium.

Munich in 4 weeks.