Monday, June 28, 2010

More Psyched Than a Badger on Crack

 Image: (C) Matt Pycroft Media - All Rights Reserved. For more great shots from the comp, check out http://mattpycroft.wordpress.com/ or Matt's facebook page

Today I feel a bit numb (a bit beaten up actually). Following a few weeks of trying to train with a duff elbow and after an abysmal result at the City Bloc comp. This weekend brought me to Sheff and the British Bouldering Championships, along with it came some luck.

What a wall! Built for the World Cup next weekend, it's basically in a big circus marquee and is so high I actually thought twice about making one or two moves during the day - certainly added that 4th dimension to problems!

After qualifying with a bit of leeway in 1st place, the finals were a fight. Problem 1 went down with a flash, however problem 2 was a different story. Every time I went to use the crucial toehook, my hand would start to slime off. I didn't even manage to get the bonus. By this stage, Gaz and Jon P. (possibly the nicest man in climbing) were ahead and I thought it was all over. I'd been preparing for just this situation though following the demoralising semi's at CWIF. I'd been spending time visualising problems going horribly wrong and then having to regain composure whilst back in Isolation. It really paid off so I managed to come out for number 3 psyched again.

This was one of the defining moments of competing for me so far, pulling through the start, I reached the pinch above the volume and the crowd suddenly seemed to go mad. It then dawned on me that possibly no-one had done the problem - there was only one way I was going to let this end. Another flash in the bag. Funniest comment I've ever heard from a commentator, apparently inspired by my face at the time (first time anyone's been inspired by that) - it forms the title of this post.... Number four, tagged the bonus hold 2nd attempt and it was in the bag. Very close - but threw up a few weaknesses I can work on over the next while.

No idea what to make of things really, feel a bit gutted for Ned as having competed in Eindhoven on Friday and driven back from Holland, he was on less than top form and was hurting. Now, rest and try to sort out a new team strip for next weekend as I may or may not have accidentally burnt a hole in the one I had (and the kitchen table) trying to iron on a logo... oops!

Once again, living for the weekend.